the panhandle's shining star

a short while back, i debated with a friend of mine where the good restaurants in san francisco were located and which neighborhoods played the haves and have nots. we didn't agree on everything (i dissed his home neighborhood, north beach, while giving props to the mission and marina), but there was little argument that the panhandle was severely lacking.

one restaurant can't change that fact, but the opening of nopa at hayes and divisadero certainly marks an effective first step. pick day of the week and one will still find the restaurant teeming with patrons, nearly all of whom seem to be chatting enthusiastically over a glass of wine. all the chatter means private conversations have to occur at raised vocal levels, but it also lends a festive ambience to the restaurant ideal for combatting the malaise that follows a mundane work day. the wide open space and exposed kitchen only add to this fact.

however, not all was perfect with the meal. The dishes generally shined, but the service ranged from curt to downright icy. the hostess nearly left my friend and i behind as she weaved through the crowds as if there were an unannounced race to our table. and the gelid blonde couldn't even manage a smile as she handed us our menus before skirting away. and though the service never lagged, at times it felt like we were being prodded through our meal in order to free our table for other patrons. our server gave terse explanations to my inquiries about the wine list and left the check halfway through dessert without ever asking if i desired a cup of coffee or a glass of port to accompany my sorbet.

still, the shortcomings of the service did little to detract from enjoyment of entrees like the mediterranean fish stew, which comes heaped with baby golden potatoes, squid and served in a hearty rouille. however, the real star of the meal is the seared black cod, a generous cut that your fork slides right through served with a crispy skin that adds a richness to the white fish. it's only the beef carpaccio with which i have qualms over the preparation. the meat is exceptionally fresh and with its topping creme fraiche achieved a buttery richness. however, the beef was sliced so thin it degenerated into a pile of mush while trying to extract it from the plate's surface.

even before i dined at nopa, i'll admit to being a fan. as much as the panhandle needs good restaurants, but the city of san francisco needs quality dining options that stay open past midnight (nopa serves until 1 a.m. daily) all the more. the food itself virtually guaranteed a return visit, but the extended hours means it earns a spot in the regular rotation.